City of the Dead

On Day Two Mahmoud took me to the City of the Dead, one of the large cemetaries in Cairo. It's actually also a city of the living, as several poor families reside in the houses that surround the graves. At first I felt really uncomfortable when people would give the 'what are you doing here?' look, but most everyone was quite friendly, especially the kids with their giggles and pointing and hellos.

The previous day Mahmoud said he would wear a white t-shirt Sunday so that he could be as white as me. 

My First Egyptian Day

Okay. I arrived in Cairo pretty late Friday night, August 3. On Saturday I left the hotel intending to walk around, saving the touristic stuff for once I was with my tour. It so happened that after an overwhleming and stressful 30 minutes I made a friend, Mahmoud, while attempting (and failing miserably) to cross a big street. We walked through some pretty areas, crossed the Nile, et cetera...



Then all of a sudden I find myself convinced to go to the pyramids "the Egyptian way," aka around the back, possibly illegally? I did see my guide give a cop some cash, but who knows, everyone has to give cops money as far as I can tell. That's Mahmoud above. He started crossing the street, not realizing I stayed behind to take a picture. Then the cars starting coming, and he had to recross in order to guide me through the traffic. This was before I was very adept at "walking like an Egyptian." Nowadays, I cross with only a small suppressed amount of fear. It's kind of exciting to see how close the cars will get to you as you weave between them. One of my prouder moments was when I realized that I had just crossed a busy street, dodging the cars instinctively, while typing a text message on my mobile!!! It's really quite fun.

So on a camel I went...trotting around the sand, a horrible and delightful experience simultaneously. We entered the pyramid area through this fence here. I felt really awkward.

I have more pyramid pictures from when I went the proper way, I post them later.

My camel's name was 'Banana.' My guide was very sweet to her. I think he loved camels a lot.

After a traumatic mobile phone purchasing experience, we went to see the Sufi dervishes do their whirling. It was fantastic. I had never seen them before, and was struck by the look of pure joyous ecstasy on their faces as they spun incessantly. It was really beautiful, and very exciting.

Everything I did that first day was wholly unexpected, and so much better being with an Egyptian. It may sound extreme to those of you who haven't been here, but I really don't think I could have handled this city on my own. Now, it's infinitely better, I know my way around, somewhat, I wear headphones when I walk alone to shut out the comments, I look at the pavement to avoid the stares...and luckily I have friends from the hostel to walk with frequently, so I can smile and talk and look wherever I want. I will try my best to post a lot more tomorrow.

Misr

So I can't post pictures now, but I have taken a lot. Someday they'll be up here.

I'm in Luxor right now, and the young guy who runs the internet cafe is playing Celine Dion. That "it's all coming back to me now" song - it's fantastic.

My group is really great. I am startled that there is not one person that I dislike!

We have been staying at far nicer hotels than I anticipated. I imagine that is because most people don't come to Egypt in August; my first hotel in Cairo had a total of four people staying there. Apparently everyone else is afraid of the heat; pansies. Down south I admit it can be a bit brutal, but Cairo was mild compared to Nicosia for the last few weeks! And it really isn't humid here, not that I've noticed.

Okay, he just started singing along with Celine!! This place rocks.

We took a two day/two night felucca (traditional sailboat) ride up from Aswan (the southernmost major city). It was one of the most relaxing and wonderful experiences of my life, until I got tired of sitting and my stomach started to hurt and I wanted a shower real real bad. But I did swim in Nile several times; I don't think it likes me very much. I'm pretty sure the Nile made me feel shitty, but I'd so still do it over again! The current was so powerful, I wanted to just float my way up to Luxor.

I danced around a bonfire with the Nubians. They don't let you sit out.

Everyone in the group has been assigned an Egyptian deity by someone who has a guide with detailed descriptions, and some of us now actually call each other by this name more often than not; especially with Thoth, aka Alan, it results in painfully hilarious conversations. He also now likes to speak in the third person; for example, about my firewood: "Allow Thoth to inspect. Thoth approves."

Ah, Hotel California is on now. I have to go eat dinner: "Beef Cubes with Cumip baked in Casserole" (sic).

Things I Miss About Cyprus

The Galicia iced tea and the Rosé from Paphos at Brew. The wonderfully nice owners of Brew. The music at Brew. Everything about Brew except for the lack of AC.

Enjoying a fine glass of Maredsous 10% outside at Plato’s accompanied by that fine Plato’s popcorn.

Hanging out in the Intercollege cafeteria, sipping a frappe, chatting with people or putting pictures up on this blog.

The chicken souvlaki and the halloumi pita at Gyromania; tzatziki, salad, and fries inside. Damn that’s good stuff. And the rice and salad at “The Green Place” which tastes exactly like the Continental’s!

Walking into my air-conditioned apartment after being outside for just about any amount of time.

Sitting in the living room, the only white American girl amid all Nepalese guys, and being strangely unbothered by not understanding what was going on in most of the conversations. Okay, sometimes I wanted to know, but really I just enjoyed listening to all the funny-sounding foreign sounds.

Watching the incredible pool player at Reckless make outstanding shots over and over. Also the tasty (raspberry?) shots the owner of Reckless would send over to us.

Taking long walks up and down the funny walkway trail thing a few blocks over from my flat, talking on the phone or listening to music.

Being driven around the city at night on the back of a scooter, the cool air in my face, headphones on…completely perfect.

Mr. Brown’s Cappuccinos, in a small can. I could drink like five a day if I didn’t restrain myself.

Texting, texting, texting. Oh God, I never knew before how much I love text messages, even though they sometimes lead to unfortunate misunderstandings.

Ummm…mushrooms (!!!). I know, it’s insane, but the way these things were made at Casa Vieja and Zebras…I can’t even describe how disconcerting it was to enjoy it. But oh how I did.

The pitchers of sangria at Casa Vieja, especially when they were free!

Moufflon Bookshop. Tons of books, crammed but orderly shelves, friendly and knowledgeable staff… Exactly what I want in a bookstore.

Greek Music.

Sitting by the fountain under Plateia Eleftherias at night with a few Carlsbergs.

The arduously long walk into town from home. It felt so unbelievably satisfying to hit the top of Ledra.

The coolest of Columbia’s incredibly varied taxi driver’s, who said that he liked how I laughed because it was “from the heart.” I’m glad somebody appreciates it!

Nepalese food, despite the occasionally intense pain of the spiciness.

All the places I never got around to visiting.

Allou, where one’s frappe comes with an unordered but very welcome glass of water and candies!

Murphy’s. Okay, maybe some mildly bad decisions were made there, but I still thought the place was great!

The weekend GLS trips. Yes, it was often terribly irritating to be with such a big group, but I’m thrilled that we got to see the places we did.

Tony’s. Despite the fact that the number of times we tried unsuccessfully to go far exceeded the number of times I actually went…I still loved the chill laid-back atmosphere and assorted nuts; just not on sickeningly humid nights.

The sub shop next to Reckless where one could get the most satisfying veggie burgers one could imagine at three in the morning.

Talking about how much we loved a certain song, then having it randomly come on a few minutes or hours later!!! And this didn’t happen just once or twice, it was seriously eery.

The fact that there are such an abundance of cafés and bars that play music I love, of all genres.

How nice to me so very many people were.

How bizarrely small of a country Cyprus is, increasing the chances for odd coincidences! One almost is led to believe in fate.

And…

You, perhaps :)

I'm Pretty Sure This is Cairo

So I went on a two hour long camel ride at the pyramids. And I haven't walked or slept normally since. This is Ghanim, who led me and and my camel around the sand. Every minute or so, he would turn around on his camel and ask, "Good happy?" Yes I was indeed good happy, just really really uncomfortable.

I'll share more later. But first I have to recount what happened this morning, when I met the woman who will be my roommate throughout the tour:

Tracey: "So where are you from, 'Kay'?"
Kay: "Seattle."
T: "Really, I grew up in Seattle!"
K: "Oh wow, what part?"
T: "Well, Carnation, actually."
K: "WHAT!!!! I GREW UP IN CARNATION!!!"

Dude, wtf...how is that possible?

And what else? She recently finished her PhD at Virginia Tech, making it apparent that I will go on no organized trip for the rest of my life without a roommate from Tech (If I didn't mention it before, my roommate in Nicosia went to Tech (and was the only person in the GLS group who did), and actually knew my roommate in Moscow, who went to Tech).

The world seriously creeps me out sometimes.